The Feature — Italian-American
Carbone
Opened in 2013 by Mario Carbone, Rich Torrisi and Jeff Zalaznick on the bones of the original Rocco's, which had served Greenwich Village since 1922. The captains in maroon tuxedos aren't a costume — they're trained for months to perform tableside service from a vanishing era. Reservations open exactly 30 days in advance and are gone in seconds.
No. 01
▲ The Legend
Spicy Rigatoni alla Vodka
The vodka cooks down with cream and tomatoes for ninety minutes — that's where the depth comes from. Pasta is rolled fresh every morning in-house. It's the dish that built the empire and the one Italian-Americans argue with: too sweet, too rich, perfectly engineered. Order it. Argue later.
No. 02
◆ Fan Favorite
Veal Parmesan
A tableside production: a pounded-thin veal cutlet the size of a dinner plate, breaded, sauced, blanketed in cheese, then run under the broiler in front of you. Regulars order it for the table and pass slices around. Comes with a simple side of linguine.
No. 03
● Chef's Pick
Caesar Salad alla ZZ
Mario Carbone's homage to ZZ Clark, the Caesar showman of his youth. Made tableside with anchovies pounded into the bowl, raw egg yolk, lemon, and a snowstorm of parmigiano. The captain narrates while assembling. Theater that still tastes good.